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Exhibition
DSGN - Apparel Design

“Finding Joy Amidst the Chaos [quilt]”

Quilt exhibited in the "Block of the Month Club Round 3" exhibition at the National Quilt Museum from 4/13/22 - 7/5/22. 13% international acceptance rate (11/85).

Initially, this quilt was an excuse to use up a large stash of Asian-inspired fabrics that had been growing steadily over the years. Instead, this quilt became a little piece of joy and sanity every month, something to distract me from my Ph.D. studies, the global pandemic, my mother's cancer diagnosis, and the general chaos that was 2021. I looked forward to each block and spent weeks ideating how to modify the designs to fit my vision. I learned new skills, such as appliqué and curved piecing, challenged my relationship with color, and (occasionally) let go of my over-planning tendencies to embrace improv quilting. Through this process, I enjoyed expanding my domestic machine quilting skills. The quilt-as-you-go method allowed me to focus intently on each block and attempt new techniques in a manageable setting. This is especially evident in the whole cloth block representing the façade of the National Quilt Museum, the block of which I am most proud. Although, quilting each block with metallic gold thread presented its own set of challenges! The final composition balances out the light and dark elements of the quilt, giving each block space to shine. It was such a joy to share my quilting journey and watch the creative evolution of the Block of the Month community throughout 2021.
Details

2022 National Quilt Museum Colleen Gelhaus Pokorny

Exhibition
DSGN - Apparel Design

“Flow Pants [Garment]”

For my design, I wanted to create a wearable piece of art. In class, we had learned about hempfabrics, but had not used it for any projects. Therefore, I felt this project was a perfect opportunity to gain a better understanding of hemp. I patterned these pants on my own, using my skill set from school and practical experience. Using junk mail, I taped everything down and started patterning. With the rough idea of a pant pattern, I drew the pants and then created the patches down the leg as a tribute to my love for abstract art. I let my pencil guide me around the paper to create my pattern. Creating a muslin prototype to start off, I learned how hard this patched look was going to be. Sewing some of the tighter curves was a struggle due to the number of times the fabric caught under the needle, and I had to rip it out and redo it. The prototype pants fit, and I was confident that I had the look I desired, so I cut the final fabric. For the final design, I used a 50% hemp, 50% cotton blend fabric. I prewashed the fabric to minimize shrinkage and for better movement when sewing. From there, the process should have beensimple. I’ve made pants in the past, but due to a severe storm, I lost power. To finish the process, I had to hand crank most of the top stitching and waist band. This process taught me that clothing be more than function; it can be a fun way explore creativity.
Details

2024 Hemp Impressions Jackson Flint Colleen Gelhaus Pokorny Marianne Dickson

Academic Journal
DSGN - Apparel Design

“Jelly Rolls and Layer Cakes: The Rise of Pre-cut Fabrics”

Pre-cut fabrics are coordinating fabric bundles that provide contemporary quilters with quick and easy solutions when selecting fabrics and reduce the amount of cutting required. This paper presents a history of pre-cut fabrics assembled through interviews with quiltmaking industry professionals, newspaper articles, quilting magazines and books, and discussions with longtime members of the quiltmaking community. Key innovations that laid the groundwork for the rise in popularity of pre-cut fabrics are discussed, and the history of four types of the most popular pre-cut fabrics (charm packs, fat quarters, Jelly Rolls, and Layer Cakes) is detailed. Quilters' rapid adoption of pre-cut fabrics impacts contemporary quilters' designs and quiltmaking practices. This research provides future guilt historians with the context needed to interpret contemporary quilters and their designs.
Details

46-83 pages 2022 American Quilt Study Group Colleen Gelhaus Pokorny View on: Google Scholar

Conference
DSGN - Apparel Design

“Lend a hand for 3D scans: Scanning methodology and data collection for tool and glove design”

Methods to conduct large-scale anthropometric studies to capture civilian measurements are inefficient and expensive. Industrial engineering principles were applied to improve the data capture process to build comprehensive datasets. The goal was to transform the raw materials (the participant) into a tangible product (anthropometric data) with minimal waste (time, equipment, and space). Traditional elements of an anthropometric study were evaluated based on how the study was conducted. Developed methods were applied to a study capturing scans of 398 participants over 7 days. Participants continually flowed through the study stations and completed it in 23.09 min on average. The study cost $34.18 per participant, compared to a traditional anthropometric study cost of $46.95 per participant. The results present the value of applying industrial engineering principles to anthropometric study design to improve the quality and accessibility of data used for human factors analyses and product design.
Details

567-574 pages 2020 Springer, Cham Bethany Juhnke Colleen Gelhaus Pokorny Linsey Griffin Susan Sokolowski

Conference
DSGN - Apparel Design

“Method to capture and analyze the waist-hip-thigh body region of seated-standing 3D scans”

The purpose of this research was to explore new methods of 3D scanning, body postures, and landmarking techniques to complete in-depth analyses of skin deformation, measurement change, and shape change of the waist-hip-thigh region of the body. There is a need to develop and test new integrated measurement analyses using 1D, 2D, and 3D data to quantify how and where the body is changing in different postures. An integrated approach was taken to select the appropriate 3D scanning technology, develop a landmarking method, and position the body to analyze the waist-hip-thigh region. A convenience sample of 11 women participated in the pilot study, ranging in age from 41-73. Using aquadrant landmarking technique, the body was divided into sections to locally analyze 1D and 2Dmeasurements, while conducting volume and curve analysis to aid our understanding of shape change. Local percent change of each circumference was significant, and the data across the various measurements captured the expansion and shrinking of the body. Additionally, the 1D, 2D, and 3D analysis of the models shows the body deforming differently based on participant size, indicating this type of data could be critical for improved size system creation. The results from the extraction of curves represents exciting frontiers in 3D shape research and in the future will enable shape to be more easily incorporated into wearable garments. This data can improve the development of materials, trims, pattern design, and sizing systems. New 3D scanning methods to quantify diverse bodies can improve a company’s competitive advantage through enhanced product fit and inclusive, quality design for all.
Details

254-265 pages 2019 Proceedings of 3DBODY.TECH 2019–10th International Conference and Exhibition on 3D Body Scanning and Processing Technologies Linsey Griffin Bethany Juhnke Emily Seifert Colleen Gelhaus Pokorny Karolina Doran

Exhibition
DSGN - Apparel Design

“Mülch [Garment]”

mülch is redefining outdoor wear that prioritizes sport and competition driven activities.
Reconnecting people with nature through simple, stylish, and function-driven clothing. Nature is a captivating medium for humans due to its necessity for self-sufficiency as well as propensity to inspire confidence and joy. We hope to inspire individuals of all abilities to go out and appreciate nature as everyone should be able to. To recapture the childlike carefreeness and innocence that the outdoors elicits. Through end-use driven design principles our products connect people with nature like no other outdoor brand.

The garden acted as inspiration for our design decisions, from the fiber content to the natural dyes, to the functional details. The look features a crossover top, and skirt made
from hand dyed 55% hemp/45% cotton blend fabric. The top was dyed with marigolds and iron-shifted. The skirt was dyed with a natural logwood dye. The skirt is an adjustable, full-length skirt with a tie/flap closure at the waist and adjustable cinch-ties at the bottom that allow the wearer to customize the coverage of the hemline. We designed the look with the end-use of harvesting in mind. The wide, open sleeves of the top provide sun coverage and allow for airflow. The top features a hidden interior pocket for storage. The skirt’s large panel pockets maximize storage capacity for harvested fruits and vegetables. The adjustable full-length skirt provides protection when farmers are on their knees and can be cinched up for ease of walking.

The nature of the dyes and coloration methods of the garments used invites stains, dirt, and sun-bleaching. Our garments are meant to be imperfect and to us, wear and tear is promoted.
Details

2024 Hemp Impressions Lucas Mazurik Zoe Reece Jackson White Colleen Gelhaus Pokorny Marianne Dickson