Assistant Professor
Design

Colleen Gelhaus Pokorny

Overview
Overview
Background
Publications

Overview

Biography

Dr. Colleen Gelhaus Pokorny is an Assistant Professor of Apparel Design at the Oregon State University College of Business in the School of Marketing, Analytics, and Design. Her research interests include sustainability trends impacting apparel product design and development; how cultural and technical innovations influence craft and design processes; and how design technologies can address gaps in diversity, equity, and inclusion. Her current research examines how designers revalue material culture through sustainable design processes when upcycling quilt materials into fashion garments. Her research has been published in Uncoverings and Ergonomics in Design. Her quilt, "Finding Joy Amidst the Chaos," was exhibited at the National Quilt Museum in Paducah, Kentucky. She is a member of the Costume Society of America (CSA), the American Quilt Study Group (AQSG), and the International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA).

Before pursuing her Ph.D., Colleen was a Technical Designer with Thirty-one Gifts and Abercrombie & Fitch. She specialized in men's knitwear, thermal soft goods, home soft goods, and handbags. She earned her Ph.D. and MA in Design, Apparel Studies - Dress, Culture, and History at the University of Minnesota College of Design and her BS in Apparel Merchandising, Design, and Production from Iowa State University.

Credentials

Ph.D. Design, Apparel Studies – Dress, History, and Culture. Museum Studies Minor. University of Minnesota, College of Design, June 2023

Career Interests

Research areas: apparel design, material culture, sustainability, quilt studies

Research interests: apparel design processes; sustainable design; craft & quiltmaking innovations; design technologies 

Dr. Colleen Gelhaus Pokorny is an Assistant Professor of Apparel Design at the Oregon State University College of Business in the School of Marketing, Analytics, and Design. Her research interests include sustainability trends impacting apparel product design and development; how cultural and technical innovations influence craft and design processes; and how design technologies can address gaps in diversity, equity, and inclusion. Her current research examines how designers revalue material culture through sustainable design processes when upcycling quilt materials into fashion garments. Her research has been published in Uncoverings and Ergonomics in Design. Her quilt, "Finding Joy Amidst the Chaos," was exhibited at the National Quilt Museum in Paducah, Kentucky. She is a member of the Costume Society of America (CSA), the American Quilt Study Group (AQSG), and the International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA).

Before pursuing her Ph.D., Colleen was a Technical Designer with Thirty-one Gifts and Abercrombie & Fitch. She specialized in men's knitwear, thermal soft goods, home soft goods, and handbags. She earned her Ph.D. and MA in Design, Apparel Studies - Dress, Culture, and History at the University of Minnesota College of Design and her BS in Apparel Merchandising, Design, and Production from Iowa State University.

Background

Education

  • Ph.D. Design, Apparel Studies–Dress, History, and Culture, Museum Studies Minor. University of Minnesota College of Design (June 2023)
  • M.A. Design, Apparel Studies–Dress, History, and Culture. University of Minnesota College of Design (May 2020)
  • B.S. Apparel Merchandising, Design, and Production, Technical Design emphasis. Iowa State University College of Human Sciences (May 2011)

Experience

  • Assistant Professor, Oregon State University College of Business (September 2023-Present)
  • Graduate Research Assistant, Goldstein Museum of Design, University of Minnesota College of Design (2020-2023)
  • Graduate Research Assistant, Human Dimensioning Lab, University of Minnesota College of Design (2019-2020)
  • Graduate Instructor, University of Minnesota College of Design (2019-2023)
  • Technical Designer, Atrium Buying Corp. for Thirty-one Gifts, Columbus, Ohio (2014-2018)
  • Assistant Technical Designer, Abercrombie & Fitch, New Albany, Ohio (2011-2014)

Professional Affiliations

  • American Quilt Study Group
  • Costume Society of America
  • International Textile and Apparel Association

Service

  • Vice President for Awards and Honors, Costume Society of America (2024-present)
  • Board of Directors, American Quilt Study Group (2023-present)
    • Publications Committee Chair
  • Reviewer, Fashion Practice (2023-present)
  • Advisory Board Member, Goldstein Museum of Design (2021-2024)
  • Student Liaison to Board of Directors, Costume Society of America (2021-2023)

Honors & Awards

  • Best Ergonomics in Design Paper Award, Human Factors and Ergonomics Society, 2024
  • Outstanding Doctoral Student Award, University of Minnesota College of Design, 2023
  • Robert C. Hillestad Fellowship: Outstanding Graduate Student in the Study of Historic Textiles Award, International Textile and Apparel Association, 2022
  • Student Team Academic Excellence Award for Apparel Studies Teaching Assistants, University of Minnesota College of Design, 2021
  • Student Academic Excellence Award - Apparel Studies, University of Minnesota College of Design, 2021
  • Mary Hoover Award for Teaching Excellence, University of Minnesota College of Design, 2020
  • Oris Glisson Fellowship: Outstanding Beginning Masters Student Award, International Textile and Apparel Association, 2019

Publications

Conference
DSGN - Apparel Design

“Lend a hand for 3D scans: Scanning methodology and data collection for tool and glove design”

Methods to conduct large-scale anthropometric studies to capture civilian measurements are inefficient and expensive. Industrial engineering principles were applied to improve the data capture process to build comprehensive datasets. The goal was to transform the raw materials (the participant) into a tangible product (anthropometric data) with minimal waste (time, equipment, and space). Traditional elements of an anthropometric study were evaluated based on how the study was conducted. Developed methods were applied to a study capturing scans of 398 participants over 7 days. Participants continually flowed through the study stations and completed it in 23.09 min on average. The study cost $34.18 per participant, compared to a traditional anthropometric study cost of $46.95 per participant. The results present the value of applying industrial engineering principles to anthropometric study design to improve the quality and accessibility of data used for human factors analyses and product design.
Details
Conference
DSGN - Apparel Design

“Qualitative survey methodology and data collection for performance glove design and fit”

Performance gloves worn for work, sport and thermoregulation are
known to have fit challenges because there is a lack of accurate and relevant
civilian anthropometric data for product manufacturers. Fit challenges also exist
because manufacturers neglect to communicate with users at the point-of purchase and during the design process about their experiences and needs with
glove fit. Poor fitting gloves can interfere with sensory information, accuracy,
protection, mobility and blood flow. There is a considerable opportunity to
improve glove fit. This qualitative study addressed the issue of communicating
with users during the design process, by collecting fit data directly from users
about their experiences with performance gloves used for work, sport and
thermoregulation. Results from the study uncovered that both men and women
have fit challenges across all performance glove market segments and simple
user check-points during the design process could help to develop better performing
products.
Details
Conference
DSGN - Apparel Design

“Method to capture and analyze the waist-hip-thigh body region of seated-standing 3D scans”

The purpose of this research was to explore new methods of 3D scanning, body postures, and landmarking techniques to complete in-depth analyses of skin deformation, measurement change, and shape change of the waist-hip-thigh region of the body. There is a need to develop and test new integrated measurement analyses using 1D, 2D, and 3D data to quantify how and where the body is changing in different postures. An integrated approach was taken to select the appropriate 3D scanning technology, develop a landmarking method, and position the body to analyze the waist-hip-thigh region. A convenience sample of 11 women participated in the pilot study, ranging in age from 41-73. Using aquadrant landmarking technique, the body was divided into sections to locally analyze 1D and 2Dmeasurements, while conducting volume and curve analysis to aid our understanding of shape change. Local percent change of each circumference was significant, and the data across the various measurements captured the expansion and shrinking of the body. Additionally, the 1D, 2D, and 3D analysis of the models shows the body deforming differently based on participant size, indicating this type of data could be critical for improved size system creation. The results from the extraction of curves represents exciting frontiers in 3D shape research and in the future will enable shape to be more easily incorporated into wearable garments. This data can improve the development of materials, trims, pattern design, and sizing systems. New 3D scanning methods to quantify diverse bodies can improve a company’s competitive advantage through enhanced product fit and inclusive, quality design for all.
Details
Exhibition
DSGN - Apparel Design

“Alice: Reimagining Suffragette Dress in the Modern Fight for Women’s Equality”

This design reimagines suffragette dress through a contemporary feminist lens, using upcycled bedsheets to symbolize unpaid labor while prioritizing size adjustability, sustainability, and historical continuity. Inspired by Alice Paul, the look merges aesthetic strategies of early 20th-century activism with modern design practices to advocate for gender equity today.
Details