Assistant Professor
Design

Colleen Gelhaus Pokorny

Overview
Overview
Background
Publications

Overview

Biography

Dr. Colleen Gelhaus Pokorny is an Assistant Professor of Apparel Design in the College of Business at Oregon State University, within the School of Marketing, Analytics, and Design. Her research explores sustainability trends shaping apparel product design and development; the ways cultural and technical innovations influence craft and design processes; and how emerging design technologies can advance diversity, equity, and inclusion. Her current work investigates how designers revalue material culture through sustainable practices, specifically by upcycling quilt materials into fashion garments. This research has been published in Uncoverings and Ergonomics in Design. Her paper "Integrating Generative AI in Design Ideation: Student Experiences with Mood Board Creation" received the Paper of Distinction Award in the Design/Product Development Track at the 2025 International Textile and Apparel Association Conference. She is an active member of the Costume Society of America (CSA), American Quilt Study Group (AQSG), the International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA), and the Corvallis Modern Quilt Guild.

In addition to her scholarly publications, Dr. Pokorny’s creative work has been featured in both academic and creative venues. Her design "Crafting Community: A Kantha-Inspired Approach to Addressing Academic Loneliness," created in collaboration with two faculty colleagues, received the Sandra Hutton Award for Excellence in Fiber Arts at the 2025 International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Design Exhibition. A lifelong quilter, Dr. Pokorny’s quilts have earned national and international recognition for their creativity and craftsmanship. Her quilt "Finding Joy Amidst the Chaos" was exhibited at the National Quilt Museum in Paducah, Kentucky. "Algorithmic Strictures of Deep Learning" and "Accidental Crossing" were accepted to QuiltCon 2026. "Modern Crossing" was selected for AQSG’s exhibition Quiltmakers and Designers: 1945–1979, and "Quilt Along with Me: Finding Communal Creativity 'Inside the Block'" was accepted into the 2024 ITAA Design Exhibition. Additionally, she earned first and third place honors at the 2025 Oregon State Fair and a third-place award at the 2025 Oregon Quilt Festival. 

Before pursuing her Ph.D., Dr. Pokorny worked as a Technical Designer for Thirty-One Gifts and Abercrombie & Fitch, specializing in men’s knitwear, thermal soft goods, home soft goods, and handbags. She earned her Ph.D. and M.A. in Design, Apparel Studies—Dress, Culture, and History from the University of Minnesota College of Design and her B.S. in Apparel Merchandising, Design, and Production from Iowa State University.

Credentials

Ph.D. Design, Apparel Studies – Dress, History, and Culture. Museum Studies Minor. University of Minnesota, College of Design, June 2023

Career Interests

Research areas: apparel design, material culture, sustainability, quilt studies

Research interests: apparel design processes; sustainable design; craft & quiltmaking innovations; design technologies, AI for design ideation 

Background

Education

  • Ph.D. Design, Apparel Studies–Dress, History, and Culture, Museum Studies Minor. University of Minnesota College of Design (June 2023)
  • M.A. Design, Apparel Studies–Dress, History, and Culture. University of Minnesota College of Design (May 2020)
  • B.S. Apparel Merchandising, Design, and Production, Technical Design emphasis. Iowa State University College of Human Sciences (May 2011)

Experience

  • Assistant Professor, Oregon State University College of Business (September 2023-Present)
  • Graduate Research Assistant, Goldstein Museum of Design, University of Minnesota College of Design (2020-2023)
  • Graduate Research Assistant, Human Dimensioning Lab, University of Minnesota College of Design (2019-2020)
  • Graduate Instructor, University of Minnesota College of Design (2019-2023)
  • Technical Designer, Atrium Buying Corp. for Thirty-one Gifts, Columbus, Ohio (2014-2018)
  • Assistant Technical Designer, Abercrombie & Fitch, New Albany, Ohio (2011-2014)

Professional Affiliations

  • American Quilt Study Group
  • Costume Society of America
  • International Textile and Apparel Association
  • Corvallis Modern Quilt Guild

Service

  • Vice President for Awards and Honors, Costume Society of America (2024-present)
  • Board of Directors, American Quilt Study Group (2023-2025)
    • Publications Committee Chair
  • Reviewer, Fashion Practice; Clothing and Textile Research Journal; The Design Journal (2023-present)
  • Advisory Board Member, Goldstein Museum of Design (2021-2024)
  • Student Liaison to Board of Directors, Costume Society of America (2021-2023)

Honors & Awards

  • Sandra Hutton Award for Excellence in Fiber Arts, International Textile and Apparel Association, 2025
  • Paper of Distinction Award Design/Product Development Track, International Textile and Apparel Association, 2025
  • 1st place, Modern - 1 person, "Orange You Glad I'm Green?" Oregon State Fair, 2025
    • 3rd place, Modern, Oregon Quilt Festival, 2025
  • 3rd place, Pieced 1-person, "Quilt Along with Me: Finding Communal Creativity 'Inside the Block'" Oregon State Fair, 2025
  • Best Ergonomics in Design Paper Award, Human Factors and Ergonomics Society, 2024
  • Outstanding Doctoral Student Award, University of Minnesota College of Design, 2023
  • Robert C. Hillestad Fellowship: Outstanding Graduate Student in the Study of Historic Textiles Award, International Textile and Apparel Association, 2022
  • Student Team Academic Excellence Award for Apparel Studies Teaching Assistants, University of Minnesota College of Design, 2021
  • Student Academic Excellence Award - Apparel Studies, University of Minnesota College of Design, 2021
  • Mary Hoover Award for Teaching Excellence, University of Minnesota College of Design, 2020
  • Oris Glisson Fellowship: Outstanding Beginning Masters Student Award, International Textile and Apparel Association, 2019

Publications

Exhibition
DSGN - Apparel Design

“Finding Joy Amidst the Chaos [quilt]”

Quilt exhibited in the "Block of the Month Club Round 3" exhibition at the National Quilt Museum from 4/13/22 - 7/5/22. 13% international acceptance rate (11/85).

Initially, this quilt was an excuse to use up a large stash of Asian-inspired fabrics that had been growing steadily over the years. Instead, this quilt became a little piece of joy and sanity every month, something to distract me from my Ph.D. studies, the global pandemic, my mother's cancer diagnosis, and the general chaos that was 2021. I looked forward to each block and spent weeks ideating how to modify the designs to fit my vision. I learned new skills, such as appliqué and curved piecing, challenged my relationship with color, and (occasionally) let go of my over-planning tendencies to embrace improv quilting. Through this process, I enjoyed expanding my domestic machine quilting skills. The quilt-as-you-go method allowed me to focus intently on each block and attempt new techniques in a manageable setting. This is especially evident in the whole cloth block representing the façade of the National Quilt Museum, the block of which I am most proud. Although, quilting each block with metallic gold thread presented its own set of challenges! The final composition balances out the light and dark elements of the quilt, giving each block space to shine. It was such a joy to share my quilting journey and watch the creative evolution of the Block of the Month community throughout 2021.
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Conference
DSGN - Apparel Design

“Development of a civilian 3D hand scan database”

Despite the complexity of the human hand, most large-scale anthropometric data for the human hand includes minimal measurements. Anthropometric studies are expensive and time-consuming to conduct, and more efficient methods are needed to capture hand data and build large-scale civilian databases to impact product design and human factors analyses. A first of its kind large-scale 3D hand anthropometric database was the result of this study with 398 unique datasets. This database was created at minimal cost and time to researchers to improve accessibility to data and impact the design of products for hands.
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Conference
DSGN - Apparel Design

“A visible functional grasp to measure the complete hand”

Glove and tools are designed to protect our hands, but manufacturers
are limited by the available anthropometric hand data, which fails to reflect
functional measurement changes of the hand while performing tasks.
Advancements in 3D scanning technology have improved the ability to capture
data, but minimal research has focused on capturing functional hand dimensions.
The purpose of this study was to develop a comprehensive protocol to
capture the dorsal and palmar side of the hand in functional positions across a
large population using the Artec Leo. The development of this protocol considered
the following elements; scanning technology, hand positions, hand
support apparatuses, scanning platforms, and standardization across a population.
Two functional hand positions, splayed and grasp, were selected based on
clear visibility of the palmar side. The protocol and final scans contributed to a
robust anthropometric database to improve the design, fit, and function of
products for hands.
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Conference
DSGN - Apparel Design

“Lend a hand for 3D scans: Scanning methodology and data collection for tool and glove design”

Methods to conduct large-scale anthropometric studies to capture civilian measurements are inefficient and expensive. Industrial engineering principles were applied to improve the data capture process to build comprehensive datasets. The goal was to transform the raw materials (the participant) into a tangible product (anthropometric data) with minimal waste (time, equipment, and space). Traditional elements of an anthropometric study were evaluated based on how the study was conducted. Developed methods were applied to a study capturing scans of 398 participants over 7 days. Participants continually flowed through the study stations and completed it in 23.09 min on average. The study cost $34.18 per participant, compared to a traditional anthropometric study cost of $46.95 per participant. The results present the value of applying industrial engineering principles to anthropometric study design to improve the quality and accessibility of data used for human factors analyses and product design.
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Conference
DSGN - Apparel Design

“Qualitative survey methodology and data collection for performance glove design and fit”

Performance gloves worn for work, sport and thermoregulation are
known to have fit challenges because there is a lack of accurate and relevant
civilian anthropometric data for product manufacturers. Fit challenges also exist
because manufacturers neglect to communicate with users at the point-of purchase and during the design process about their experiences and needs with
glove fit. Poor fitting gloves can interfere with sensory information, accuracy,
protection, mobility and blood flow. There is a considerable opportunity to
improve glove fit. This qualitative study addressed the issue of communicating
with users during the design process, by collecting fit data directly from users
about their experiences with performance gloves used for work, sport and
thermoregulation. Results from the study uncovered that both men and women
have fit challenges across all performance glove market segments and simple
user check-points during the design process could help to develop better performing
products.
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Conference
DSGN - Apparel Design

“Method to capture and analyze the waist-hip-thigh body region of seated-standing 3D scans”

The purpose of this research was to explore new methods of 3D scanning, body postures, and landmarking techniques to complete in-depth analyses of skin deformation, measurement change, and shape change of the waist-hip-thigh region of the body. There is a need to develop and test new integrated measurement analyses using 1D, 2D, and 3D data to quantify how and where the body is changing in different postures. An integrated approach was taken to select the appropriate 3D scanning technology, develop a landmarking method, and position the body to analyze the waist-hip-thigh region. A convenience sample of 11 women participated in the pilot study, ranging in age from 41-73. Using aquadrant landmarking technique, the body was divided into sections to locally analyze 1D and 2Dmeasurements, while conducting volume and curve analysis to aid our understanding of shape change. Local percent change of each circumference was significant, and the data across the various measurements captured the expansion and shrinking of the body. Additionally, the 1D, 2D, and 3D analysis of the models shows the body deforming differently based on participant size, indicating this type of data could be critical for improved size system creation. The results from the extraction of curves represents exciting frontiers in 3D shape research and in the future will enable shape to be more easily incorporated into wearable garments. This data can improve the development of materials, trims, pattern design, and sizing systems. New 3D scanning methods to quantify diverse bodies can improve a company’s competitive advantage through enhanced product fit and inclusive, quality design for all.
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